What does a Stabilizer do? - Kato's competitors don't always mention the need for lateral stabilization, but we believe it is an essential consideration for any quality installation. Apart from the direct downward load that a dinghy imparts on davits, there is considerable sideways load. This load is imparted by the heeling angle of the mother vessel, and the wave action under the vessel.

Side loads must be reduced by using spring lines on the dinghy to stop the load itself from moving, but there is always some residual movement.

How do I achieve this stable arrangement? - Historically, rail mounted davits were secured by locating pins near the base (Kato's older Bay Model) or by restraining wires between the davits, and from the corner of the stern rail (Kato's Island Model).

Kato includes a method of attaching such guy wires on our davits. However, since this method of stabilization does not work on all vessels, we normally recommend rigid methods of stabilizing the davits.

Notice that on our Island model davits, where we expect that heavier outboard motors, rigid bottom inflatables (RIB’s), and larger dinghies will be used; Kato recommends that stabilization should be implemented near the outboard end of the davits, and not close to the stern rail, where the length of the davit can become an overwhelming lever arm.

We offer four styles of rigid stabilizers for the Island model davits; two of them are fixed in place, and two are removable. With the exception of the ‘Slip-On’ stabilizer, all of these methods are available for the BayII model davits

Fixed Stabilizers

Method #1 – The aluminum fixed stabilizer

If you know anything about Kato Marine, it is that we pride ourselves on the quality and beauty of our products. In keeping with this, our 'fixed' stabilizer is made from 6061-T6 aluminum which is hand sanded, acid etched, surface neutralized, primed, and then finished with off-white Awlgrip® polyurethane. When installed the 'fixed' stabilizer has a soft appearance that blends with its surroundings. The aluminum stabilizers are available in three lengths: 52” – 65” (1321mm – 1651mm), 65” – 78” (1651mm – 1981mm), or 78” – 91” (1921mm – 2311mm).

Method #2 - The stainless steel SS100 fixed stabilizer

Made from two stainless steel tubes with three 3” cross plates connecting them, the cross plates and tubes form a grid which is where the stabilizer gets the rigidity. Like the aluminum stabilizer, it clamps to the davits and can be removed by simply undoing four bolts. The plates provide a surface for attaching antennas, lights, etc.

What's involved in installing the 'Fixed' Stabilizer? Each stabilizer is provided with everything needed to install them. The stainless steel version is made to the exact length required, and simply bolts in place. The aluminum stabilizer is adjustable and requires some drilling. They come with complete step-by-step instructions and are easy to install. The fixed stabilizers can be removed for winter storage, etc. by undoing four bolts.

Removable Stabilizers

Some of our customers want to utilize the folding capabilities of our davits. They want a unit they can just slip in place when using their davits and easily remove otherwise.

Method #3 - Stainless steel 'Slip-on' stabilizer

Available only for the Island model davits, this highly polished stainless steel unit slips over the outboard end of each Island davit with the welded 'nub' serving as a locator. A polished stainless steel pin locks it in place. Because both davits are gripped over 5½” of their length; the stabilizer forms a rigid triangulation, thus preventing any lateral movement of the davits.

Method #4 - The Cross Tube stabilizer

Available for either the Island or the BayII model davits, this stabilizer uses a tube to hold the davits apart and crossed lines or wires to stop the davits from swinging left and right. Made from either 1” (25mm) or 1-1/4” (32mm) diameter stainless steel tubing, this is an inexpensive method of having a removable stabilizer. The choice of tube diameter depends on the length. The larger tube is used when the length is over 65” (1650mm). It does exactly the same job as the other stabilizers.

The cross tube stabilizer is simple to make and that keeps the price down. Of course, in the usual Kato style we weld the ends and then blend the welds into the metal so that you can’t see them. It is a requirement that they use diagonal wires or ropes to make the whole system work, and these wires/ropes can be a hindrance when standing on a transom scoop. On transoms without a scoop (or similar) they present no problem.